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Bandit 17 swing keel seal

Posted by Bob 
Bob
Bandit 17 swing keel seal
May 20, 2009 03:12AM
Can anybody tell me what to replace the swing keel seal on a Bandit 17 with. It looks like it was
some sort of rubber coated fiberglass mat.
Thanks, Bob
Re: Bandit 17 swing keel seal
May 20, 2009 06:04AM
Hi Bob,

Funny you should ask ... I have been trying to figure out the same thing. I had water sloshing up into the cockpit last season. Presumably that isn't good for boat speed or comfort. Anyway, after a lot of fruitless online searching I think I have found what you need. It is called a slot gasket and they are made of neoprene, mylar, or sailcloth, or some combination. By my measurements, the Bandit 17 needs about 5' of 3" gasket. The original was neoprene, I believe. The only supplier I found was Annapolis Performance Sailing. I bought 6' of the three inch mylar tape. Mylar seems to be the best material, but it was all I could find so I'll take their word for it. I figure that I will cut it down the middle using the original as a guide. Cost me around $20. I haven't installed it yet as I am also working on painting, replacing the tiller, and installing a boom vang. I am expecting to find a lot of crap stuck up in the centerboard slot.

How do you like your Bandit??

Peter
Bob
Re: Bandit 17 swing keel seal
May 21, 2009 03:37AM
Thanks alot I'll check it out.
I just bought the Bandit a couple of weeks ago and am doing a little TLC. I took her out this past Sunday for a couple of hours
and all seemed to go well. I just getting into sailing, but the boat seems quite nice. I also had to replace the tiller and after my maiden
voyage have found that the replacement rudder that came with her is to short and limits control. I'm carving out a 48" long rudder as this seems to be what is called for on all the boats this size in the research i've done. What' the length of the rudder on yours?

Bob
Re: Bandit 17 swing keel seal
May 21, 2009 10:51PM
Hi Bob,

Yes, I found the boat sails nicely. My tiller seems to be on its last legs, and I don't know if it was the original but I do know it was poor and short. I fixed the short problem by adding a tiller extension i made up myself. It would have been easier and almost as cheap to buy one made up. But the tiller extension is the way to go, especially if you are single handing and you want to get your weight forward in the boat. I am considering replacing the tiller with one locally I found for $40. That one is 46". If I get that I will have to see if I still want the tiller extension.


Peter
Re: Bandit 17 swing keel seal
July 09, 2009 05:05PM
Peter,

Have you done the install for the gasket?

Pretty sure this needs to be done and was looking for a how to with pics : )

Thanks in Advance!

Tom
Re: Bandit 17 swing keel seal
July 16, 2009 12:27PM
Hi Tom,

I have installed the new gasket, and it was not complicated, but it took a lot of work.

All I did was to remove the metal strip surrounding the gasket. Then removed the old gasket and measured it against the 3" mylar strip I bought. It is slightly less then three inches so I had to trim a little. I had to clean out the slot which was full of crap; I cut down the middle of the mylar with scissors using the old gasket as a template. I taped one end of the mylar strip to the bottom of the boat, and reattached the metal edging to hold it down.

The job is done, but I have yet to test. Weather has been foul up here and I have been away from home lately.

What was hard was the following.

1. The little screws number about 40 and were bottom painted in. Some of them don't want to come off. Some heads got stripped. I bought all new SS screws to replace them with. It took forever.

2. When I removed some screws water started coming out of the hull through the screw holes. I decided to let the water drain out, which it did, but very slowly. There was a lot of water in there. It had come from above, so I will have to go looking for leaks above in the cockpit.

3. You have to be careful in the order which you reattach the metal edging. It bends easily and tends to want to come up short and not match the existing holes as you go along. I just fiddled and rescrewed until it worked, but there must be a better way.

The mylar is stiffer than the original, and I think should work better. Couldn't be any worse as the original was really badly worn.

Don't have any pictures, but I don't think they are needed.
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