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I haven't yet. But, I'll just use fiberglass tape on the both sides to reattach it to the deck. When it comes time to reattach the tub floor to the hull I'll fiberglass in thin sheets of foam to the hull a little beyond where the resin bed was and then use thickened epoxy to attach the floor to it.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
I ended up cutting it about three inch above the floor.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
As to Scott's questions, I tried everything I could think of to separate the two. Just was not able to get enough room to get in there. Once I had I just used wedges and basically a floor scraper to break the bond. I was able to save the rub rails, they came of very easy. For the hull/deck joint I'm not sure yet on what I'll do there.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
Removed cockpit floor from hull. The fact it is hard mounted in a bed of resin and caused a hard spot along the length of it. Is the main reason it cracked.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
Yep, here is a pic. Also, 1974 was the first production year for the Whip, and from what I have read here and on the net only 120 were built. It wouldn't be to far fetched to say 1974 was the only year it was built. I am also starting to think the 4th HIN character may very well be the production plant where it was built.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
I am wondering how much difference your whip mast is from that of my sidewinder. The measurements are almost the same, the rigging and height of the mast are different, but I wonder if the profile is the same. Here is a pic of the end profile of my mast. Also, My sail number 1273 does not match the hull numbers. I am also thinking that the fourth and the twelfth characters are letters.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
That is a Whip. Here is a link that Joe had found: They might be able to help you.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
Go in to the control center and click edit my files. From there you can upload your photos. Once the file is uploaded and you want to place it in a post, right click on the mouse and select copy short cut then paste it in the post. This might all change after the update. There is also a thread that Joe started that might explain it better then I did. I have a Sidewinder and my Hull number is Mby ttwn0324 - sailmfg
Yes it is. I have also used an air venture pump that I use to pull vacuum in a cars coolant system. It works as long as there are no leaks in the bagging system, which for me there always seems to be. It is just less noise using the electric pump to keep a vacuum when there is a leak. I find myself in kind of a grey area with the whole vacuum bagging thing. You cannot beat the results of using itby ttwn0324 - sailmfg
No other site but this one. Take pictures & post them here. Someone will be able to tell you what you have. There should also be a hull number on the transom.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
The bag is a high tech heat stabilized nylon 6 resin film that can with stand temperatures up to 350 degrees; this is what the sales person told me, you have to love it when they mask their BS in hi-tech jargon. Anyway, it is vacuum bagging film that West System and Airtech sell.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
Starting to repair damage on a sidewinder I purchased last year. While I am at it I will also stiffen the hull. Just starting the project & will post as it progresses.by ttwn0324 - sailmfg
I went with a 2000 Lb torsion axle from Reliable, Track Length of 60", 46 "center to center mounting holes for a 48" frame. I'm a little worried I went to big. From my estimates the trailer will weight in at 500 Lb. The boat, even thou the spec say 175 Lb, will weight in at 280 Lb. So all together, with odd ends throwing in, I'll say between 800-900Lb, Leaving alot of suspension uby ttwn0324 - sailmfg
Hello, I have a 1971 Sidewinder & I'm building a trailer for it. I was interested in what type of hull support most people run. I was planing on building option #3 from the MFG hull support file, found under the general info tab. If so were to place, how many & what about a bottom roller in front & on the back of the trailer?by ttwn0324 - sailmfg